The Pizza Place

J. J. Dolan's classic pies are simple and satisfying

THE MOTHER OF ALL PIZZAS: J.J. Dolan's Margherita in all her tomato-y glory.

I'm the father of a finicky 6-year old and the husband of a very particular thirty-something-plus, so, over the past several years, I've been eating pizza like a college kid.  I like to think of myself as a bit of an authority in the field.  However, being a self-proclaimed pizza expert in Hawaii is kind of like being a surfing guru in Nebraska.

When I heard about the handcrafted pizzas at J.J. Dolan's, a new pub on Bethel Street on the edge of Chinatown, I wanted to be one of the first to try its authentic pies.  And I was, or we were, visiting the place on the first day it was serving pizza.  I brought along my fellow pizza experts: a foodie from a prominent restaurant family; a former New York City resident, who can rattle off Manhattan's famous pizza joints like I could name Honolulu's okazu-ya; and my wife, who has eaten many a pie in her day.

The first indication that we were in for some serious pizza eating was J.J. Dolan's simple, no-nonsense menu, which featured nine different pies in two categories: Classic and Signature.  The Classics included the Classic Cheese Pie ($15), the Classic Pepperoni ($15), Pizza Margherita ($16), the White Pie ($16), and the Spinach and Garlic Pie ($16.50).  The Signatures featured the Giacomo ($17), the Scampi Pie ($17.50), Quattro Formaggio ($17) and the Deli Meat Special ($17).

If none of the above strikes your fancy, J. J. Dolan's gives you the option of creating your own pie from a list of 21 toppings, which leads me to perhaps the most important item on the menu: A request that patrons limit the toppings to four items.  "If you don't, you're killing it!"

We ended up ordering three different pies with two selections each.  Our first pizza featured spinach and garlic on one half and scampi on the other.  Both were winners.  First off, the crust was lovely.  Thin, with a crispy bottom layer and a tender middle.  It was perfectly cooked and balanced- not too bready or crackerlike.

Limited to only a handful of ingredients, both sides had simple yet satisfying flavors.  The spinach pie had the perfect hint of garlic, even though the aroma engulfed our table.  The flavors of scampi's bay shrimp were elevated, thanks to a little salt and a very light sprinkling of butter. Only so much and no more.

Our second pie featured Margherita and the deli meat special.  The Margherita- the mother of all pizzas- featured the traditional trio of toppings: tomato sauce, mozzarella and fresh basil.  While one of my friends found the sauce too plain for her liking, I appreciated the simplicity and the brightness of the tomato flavor, which didn't overpower the basil or the cheese.  All worked wonderfully with the amazing crust.

The deli meat special, which featured sausage, cappacola, salami and ham, was also good.  People who are used to meat-lover's pizzas elsewhere might be a little disappointed with this pizza, since it doesn't have massive quantities of meats.  But, again, I thought the lighter application of the toppings preserved the integrity of the pie.

Our final pizza featured the white pie (mozzarella and ricotta) and the quattro formaggio (havarti, brie, gouda, and fontina cheeses).  This was probably our least successful pizza.  The quattro, with its combination of hard and soft cheeses, melted nicely and had flavors reminiscent of fondue.  But the white pizza was too subtle for me.  The mozzarella and ricotta just kind of sat there on the crust, although that isn't such a bad place to be.

J. J. Dolan's serves only pizzas right now.  No sandwiches.  No salads.  I'm not sure how good a business model that is.  But as far as pizza models go, it's a winner.

 

J. J. Dolan's Pizza Pub
1147 BETHEL ST.
537-4992

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