Soup for the Soul (and the Face)

Tenkaippin's collagen ramen makes you feel pretty, inside and out

GOLDEN AND DELICIOUS: Tenkaippin’s kotteri ramen features a rich, thick and gravylike broth.

TENKAIPPIN RAMEN 617 Kapahulu Ave. Mon. - Thurs., 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fri. and Sat., 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Closed Sundays. 808-732-1211

I’ve heard a lot about Tenkaippin’s collagen-rich kotteri ramen: how thick and creamy the broth is, and how women in Japan flock to the Kyoto-based restaurant chain with the belief that eating a ramen filled with boiled-down connective tissue will be good for their tissues, specifically their skin.

I don’t know much about the connection between collagen and complexion, but the flavor and texture part of the equation hardly seemed like a revelation to me. Most cooks know that when you make broth of any kind, it’s the stuff in between the bones and the meat that contains all the magic. So, I never bothered to make the trek into Waikiki to try Tenkaippin’s mysterious kotteri, which translates into “fatty” or “unctuous,” not very attractive culinary terms.

Then Tenkaippin came to me, or, at least, my neighborhood. Earlier this year, the popular shop moved to Kapahulu Avenue. It’s near the Jamba Juice/Starbuck’s complex and next door to a music shop and an Edward Jones office. In other words, it’s the perfect location for a noodle house.

The restaurant features a central counter with a handful of tables on either side. The interiors are painted a sunny yellow and against one wall stands a tall bookshelf filled with Japanese books and magazines. In Japan, Tenkaippin may be a place for the ladies who lunch, but, in Hawaii, it seems to draw a more eclectic crowd. On the wall are autographed photos of various sumotori and other athletes who have visited the place.

It took me about two seconds to decide on my order, Kotteri Ramen with Fried Chicken ($11.20). The famous noodles can also be ordered separately for $8.32 or with Fried Rice, also for $11.20, or with Gyoza for $9.70. There are also a half dozen other ramen, which use a shoyu-, miso- or pork-based broth. My wife ordered the Assari (shoyu) Ramen with Fried Rice ($11.20).

First off, fatty and unctuous aren’t good words to describe kotteri’s rich, golden broth. It’s creamy but it’s not heavy, and it goes down smoothly without leaving an oily residue. Taste-wise, the broth kind of reminded me of the gooey goodness of a chicken pot pie, except thinner and smoother. There was also a hint of nuttiness to the savory flavors that I detected on first bite.

The kotteri also came with a thin slice of very tender pork and a small handful of green onions. The waitress suggested that I try one of their condiments, an intoxicating (for me) mix of diced garlic and chili pepper. This spicy, fragrant relish gave the noodles an extra — but unnecessary — kick. Next time, I’m having my kotteri straight.

The other dishes were good, but not memorable. The chicken was solid — crunchy, tender and flavorful, and the fried rice was moist, with a nice salty, porky flavor. I’d order them all again, but I would make a special trip for the kotteri.

I’m not sure how they get that broth to be so consistent in texture, flavor and color. To tell you the truth, I don’t want to know. It’s a mystery, and I’m OK with that. I don’t care if eating kotteri made my skin pretty. I do know that after I finished, my insides felt beautiful.

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