Something Different

CaffeGrazie brings chandeliers and something different to downtown's dining scene

PRIME SUB: Grilled eggplant and roasted peppers transform bread into a piece of colorful sandwich real estate.

CAFFEGRAZIE 345 Queen St. Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. 808-521-8820

"Our slogan was originally ‘Great Food, Great Service, Chandeliers,’ which was cute but it didn’t really tell you much,” says Jim Doyle, co-owner of the funky downtown restaurant CaffeGrazie. “So now it’s: ‘Something Different Downtown,’ because that is what we are trying to do.”

After visiting CaffeGrazie several times over the course of a week, I prefer slogan No. 1. Not only is it more precise — the food and service are very good and there are chandeliers on the premises — but it also captures the quirky spirit of the restaurant, which also has its walls covered with framed pages torn from a 1950s Italian magazine.

CaffeGrazie’s moonstruck décor was designed by Doyle’s partner,Marco Kihm, who handles the restaurant’s day-to-day operations and also studied in Rome years ago. It’s a big change from the Queen Street space’s earlier interior design, which could best be described as Early American Lunch Counter.

But décor isn’t the only thing different and special about CaffeGrazie. When Doyle and Kihm took over the space late last year, they tore out the kitchen’s deep-fat fryer and decided on a simple, healthy menu with some Italian touches. In addition to pastries and breakfast sandwiches in the morning, CaffeGrazie also features pastas, salads, paninis, specialty hoagies and other sandwiches for lunch.

We went to CaffeGrazie on a blustery day and, after placing our orders, sat in its tree-covered courtyard. This rare downtown dining area sits below street level, giving the illusion that you’ve removed yourself from the hustle and bustle of the big city. However, the occasional passing bus easily breaks that spell.

I ordered the Grilled Eggplant Panini ($7), which was delivered to our table promptly. The sandwich featured eggplant, roasted peppers, spinach, Provolone cheese, sun-dried tomato pesto, all encased in two slices of pillowy focaccia. The panini was accompanied by a small green salad I flavored with a sweet oriental dressing that was smooth and pleasant. The sandwich was pretty, the vegetables still fresh and bright and the bread, although light and delicate, held up well throughout. However, I would have appreciated a few more pinches of salt, which would have drawn out more flavors from the vegetables.

My dining companions were equally impressed with their paninis, tuna with artichoke and black olive tapenade ($7.50) and roast chicken breast with peppers, onions, sautéed mushrooms, Provolone cheese and basil pesto ($7.50). One of them thought that the chicken, still moist and tender, was cooked perfectly.

I returned to CaffeGrazie for lunch the following day and, knowing that they could make a good sandwich, I ordered a bowl of Minestrone Soup ($4.50). Again, the dish was delivered to my table quickly and again I saw, smelled and tasted fresh, vibrant ingredients. The broth was filled with large chunks of carrots, celery, onions, zucchini, tomatoes and potatoes. The flavors were rich and colors vivid. I didn’t need any salt this time.

The soup came with a good-size hunk of bread, which made it a filling meal.

While I still like CaffeGrazie’s first slogan for its precision and originality, I think that Doyle may be on to something. When a downtown lunch counter offers food in which you identify fresh ingredients as easily and quickly as you can spot, say, a chandelier, that is something very different.

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