J is for Jewel

J at The Willows is a diamond in the rough

One plus two plus three equals one. Not very good math, but it is an equation that I came up with to explain my terrific meal at J at The Willows, an upscale eatery located on the second floor of the junglelike restaurant, The Willows.

J at The Willows • 901 Hausten St. • Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. • 952-6990

It may be obvious to hardcore foodies out there, but some of my greatest pleasures as an amateur cook and a professional eater have been when I've tasted something that is comprised of many ingredients and processes but never loses its essential character, never stops being that one thing.

Don't laugh, but I used to think that a well-prepared piece of mochiko chicken was a good example of this mysterious process. All that garlic, shoyu, sugar and flour come together and yet none of them overpower the chicken.

Now I have a better example. It's executive chef Jay Matsukawa's (the J of J at The Willows) Oven-Roasted Striped Bass ($27), a wizardly combination of flakey fish, fragrant herbs and savory bacon served on a small bed of crisp, sharp Swiss chard. On first glance, the dish looks deceptively simple: a healthy helping of fish covered with small slices of apple wood-smoked bacon. But there's something chemical or magical going on under the roasted skin, because one taste of the fish gets all the taste buds and neurons firing: salty and slightly sweet, smokey, herby, bitter, crunchy, crispy and moist. It was endlessly interesting, yet simple. I never forgot the essential fishiness (in a good way) of the fish.

Chop, Chop: J at The Willows' Pan-Roasted Lamb is served with a smooth and subtle brandy and cherry sauce. Photo: Jimmy Forrest

Alas, the striped bass belonged to my dining companion, so I only got a few, precious bites. But my Pan-Roasted Lamb ($31) was also a good example of Matsukawa's light, imaginative touch. The generous rack had a crust of toasted fennel and coriander seeds and was served with a rich, sweet brandy and cherry glace. Again, there weren't any fancy fusions or culinary cleverness with this meat dish. The woodsy herb crust complemented the cherry sauce, which seemed to neutralize any bit of gaminess in the lamb.

This deceptive simplicity was the theme of the night. Earlier, we had shared a bowl of chunky Tomato Soup ($6), which had all the tartness of the fruit mysteriously removed. It was the best tomato soup I've ever had. The Hamachi Carpaccio ($12) featured the flavorful, buttery fish in a yuzu and Hawaiian chili pepper marinade. It was garnished with paper-thin slices of garlic and garlic oil. It sounds a lot more complicated than it tasted. Only the Blue Crab and Lobster Cake ($9) disappointed. The flavors were so subtle they were almost nonexistent.

We finished the evening with two of J's three dessert "trilogies." We chose the Chocolate ($10) and Fruit ($7). Of the two, I preferred the fruit trio, which featured cantaloupe sorbet, a fruit crepe and a lemon pound cake covered in a brown butter and Key lime sauce. Everything was unmistakably fruity, but, again, nothing was overly fancy, just delicious.

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